I never used flash in all my model photos over the years. I flash indoors and when my setting is during daylight.unless I want to enhance faces under an alcove or in shadow. Harold, I'm sorry, I have overlooked this thread for a couple of days. (This is particularly true when using devices like extension tubes to increase magnification.)įinally you can use a hyperfocal distance calculator to see how much of your image will be in focus at various focal length's and apertures at a given distance. As some very short focal distances, even stopping down to the smallest apertures fails to bring the entire scene into focus. You can decrease the aperture of the lens, but that in itself leads to other problems. That is, the part of the photo that's in focus becomes narrower. At short focal distances, the depth of field in a photo is smaller (at average apertures). It's used extensively in macro photography, and to a lesser extent in landscape photography. This maximizes the overall sharpness of the image. The image capture software would not be able to discern the appropriate reference points in the photo to align the composite image(s).įocus stacking combines multiple photos with different focus points within the scene. You really wouldn't want to change that in a scene. Focal length is the magnification that the lens produces. You are incorrect when you say "taken at different focal lengths". You are correct when you say Focus stacking is combining multiple shots of the same scene. Focus stacking is photo stacking but photo stacking is not necessarily focus stacking.
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